October 17 - 23, 2005 Myanmar's first international weekly © Volume 15, No.288
 
 
 

Snacking the Myanmar way on mohinga and laphet thoke

By Khin Nyein Aye Than

ANYONE who visits Myanmar and asks a local person what food they should try for an authentic taste of the country will most likely be pointed in the direction of the nearest mohinga vendor.

Although the word mohinga translated into English literally means ‘bitter gravy dish’, there is nothing bitter about it. Available everywhere in Myanmar and eaten at all time of the day, it consists of rice noodles and a fish-based gravy. Other typical ingredients include lemon grass, ginger, saffron powder, garlic and onion. Many people add a squeeze of lemon, and it is often eaten with gourd fritters, boiled egg and chili powder as well.

Among the more famous mohinga shops in Myanmar are Myaung Mya Daw Cho, which has six chains around the city, and Tin Tin Aye.

Making mohinga at home is a long-standing tradition in Myanmar, but it has become easier with the wide availability of instant packets at such supermarkets as Super One, Ga Mone Pwint and City Mart. These instant varieties are becoming increasingly popular with Myanmar people and foreign visitors alike.

Another popular dish is ohnokaukswe, which is similar to mohinga but is made with wheat noodles and a chicken-based coconut milk gravy. The coconut milk gives it a rich taste that is reminiscent of Thai food. It is usually eaten with crispy fried noodles, shredded raw onion, chili powder and a squeeze of lemon.

Another unique Myanmar delicacy is laphet thoke, or pickled green tea leaf salad. The flavourful leaves are marinated in sesame or peanut oil, with the addition of fried garlic slices, fried peanuts, sesame seeds and dried prawn. Fresh green chili is added by locals to spice up the taste. It is a versatile dish, and variations in the recipe might include sliced tomatoes or cabbage leaves.
Other delicious salads include gin thoke (ginger salad) and myin khwa ywet thoke (horseshoe leaf salad). Street-side salad shops can be found throughout Yangon, where friends sit and share their food while enjoying conversation and a cup of green tea.

Food from Shan State is also enjoyed throughout Myanmar. The region offers a wide variety of tasty dishes that are simple and healthy. Many foreigners prefer Shan food because it is not as heavy in oil and salt as many other varieties of Myanmar food.

Among the more well-known Shan snacks are rice noodles, rice cakes and tofu prepared in a variety of ways. Tofu salad is made by combining red chili, garlic, vinegar, roasted peanuts, roasted sesame seeds, coriander leaves, light soy sauce and oil. A bowl of Shan green tea goes well with tofu salad as a matching soup.

Crispy fried tofu served with hot chili sauce is also good for snacking. Many locals enjoy them like westerners enjoy French fries.

Shan foods can be found at Shan restaurants throughout Yangon, including the food stalls along picturesque Inya Lake.

Street vendors sell a number of other popular snacks, including deep-fried vegetables, rice cakes steamed in banana leaves, and bain mont, a Myanmar-style pancake made with creamy rice powder and liquid jaggery, topped with sliced peanuts, coconut and poppy seeds.

   
         
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